The came out in '67, but it was a Camaro exclusive for the SS Not sure what you mean about the partial VIN. Yours shows a 7, why would an 8 be mentioned or the '68 model year be mentioned when your VIN has a 7? Thanks, hursst. Ok, This engine has this code 17K, 9 characters and it looks like '67 or '77, but the pictures on the site I looked at showed a '67 having a code 7A 8 characters and '68's with codes 18K23?
These having a resemblance to the code on this engine except for the second character being an 8. The pistons have valve reliefs, would a '77 had come with these? I did a little more research. Your block number , wasn't introduced until late April of , meaning it had to have been from There should also be a casting date on the block, which should be at the rear of the block to the right of the casting number. It should read something like M 3 7, Meaning Dec 3, , for your block.
See if that is on the back of your block and that should answer the question about the date.
Also, Chevrolet started painting their blocks "corporate blue" in , so if you have any blue paint left over on the block, then that's another give away. Valve reliefs were common with certain Chev small blocks during the era, while others didn't have them. Depends on the application. Hope this helps a little. I have no doubt it would be a model year motor, given the three letters at the end of the "machining code". Historically, "valve reliefs" might have started in the earlier s, when camshaft lifts increased during the "high compression" era, BUT the piston in the Chevy was what I term "4 valve cut-out, dished and beveled" piston in them.
This same configuration piston was also used in the Corvettes with aluminum cylinder heads smaller combustion chambers and 9. The small block casting was pretty much common in the s. Or if the main journals were the same size, a Different strokes would mean different piston "compression height" for a constant "deck height" or compression ratio in the engine. I also believe it could be either a 2-bolt or 4-bolt main block, depending upon how the main cap machining and such were done?
Remember, it's the "machining code" which defines what the engine was built to go in and what other items were attached to it to make the completed engine assembly "hanging on the hook at the assembly plant". The smaller stamp is which particular vehicle it resided in. This will identify the piston as. The cylinder walls were bored. Somewhere in the middle s, the block castings were more "thin wall" in nature and would reliably support ONLY a total of. In other words, this "block" you've found, which you seem to desire to be a for whatever reason , could just be good for nothing more than a huge boat anchor.
Of course, it could be disassembled, vatted, and then possibly bored to.
This is something that might be a "crap-shoot" or that only an experienced engine builder might estimate. Internal "guts" were the same, except for compression ratio, all the way through about or later. Same cam, same valve sizes, for example. Without those stamps on the pad area, that 4" bore block becomes "just a 4" bore block" -- period. But numbers correct is not numbers matching. Again, it either matches or it doesn't.
Specific Information, Notes for Casting Numbers, Locations and Other Notes
If it doesn't match - is it correct? Numbers matching is important when you're trying to decode a Z28 or Super Sport where the VIN won't identify the vehicle as such. You need to decode the engine and see if it matches the vehicle, and if the code signifies Z28 or SS equipment.
Lastly, in extreme cases, you'll want to verify the numbers stamped onto the component were the ones stamped into it originally and aren't restamped. The point of this article is to help you figure out how to decode stuff.
Engine Code Stamping Numbers All engines are stamped with an engine ID code, consisting of assembly plant code, production date and suffix code. V8 codes are stamped on a pad just forward of the right side passenger cylinder head.
Reference: Chevy Engine Block Casting Numbers
On a matching numbers transmission, these six numbers will match the production number on the VIN and engine stamp. The next step is to analyze the numbers on components like the alternator, carburetor, distributor, generator, starter, and water pump. Checking these codes should easily allow you to determine which parts have been replaced.
diskthonecofport.tk Even if these numbers don't match the VIN, they should match the sequence of production. Because these numbers change through the years, use a source specific to your model to look up the correct part numbers for your Corvette. A Corvette's documentation is an important tool for understanding what is original and what has been replaced. Inspecting stamps on the car—the VIN, engine stamps, and trim tag, for example—and comparing those with sales receipts, the build sheet, and expert resources will go a long way toward telling you if you have an original car.
Be careful, though, because it is possible to fake matching numbers by sanding off old numbers and restamping them to match the car. If you suspect this is the case, you may want to have an expert check the car. Sarah Shelton is an automotive journalist specializing in Corvettes. She has written for U.
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Updated August 04, Continue Reading.